Bhupen Hazarika: Moha Bahu Brahmaputra

Pulak Banerjee: Aakakh Jetiya

Upper Assam: Sibsagar, Jorhat, Majuli

Factfile
Best Season: November-March

Watered by a tributary of the Brahmaputra, it is from Upper Assam that most of us get our morning cuppa. The picturesque town of Jorhat is the region's commercial hub. It also serves as a base for tourists visiting the area. Blessed with a fantastic view of the Himalayas and endless acres of green, Upper Assam's tourist draws are Majuli, the largest river island, and the ancient Ahom capital of Sibsagar.

Getting There
Jorhat is your base for exploring Upper Assam. It's connected by air to Calcutta. However there are no convenient trains to Jorhat, so buses are a better choice if opting for surface transport. There are frequent services to Guwahati, Sibsagar and Kaziranga.

Getting About
Since both Majuli and Sibsagar are a good distance away, it's best to book a toursit taxi to take you sightseeing. There are state transport buses, but highly unreliable. Besides, the roads and drivers between them might ensure a safe journey - but certainly not a smooth one. There are also autorickshaws and taxis.


Accommodation
There are no luxury hotels in Jorhat. All it offers are tourist lodges and budget hotels with the very basic of facilities - and that does not include hot water in the bath. However the rooms are cleand and the food good. You can check out:

Hotel Paradise
Solicitor's Road
Jorhat
Tel: 321579

Tourist Lodge
Near Bus Station
Jorhat

In case you want to stay overnight at Sibsagar, there are several places that will put you up.

Tourist Lodge
Tank Area
Sibsagar
Tel: 03772-21814


Kareng Hotel
Temple Road
Sibsagar
Tel: 03772-22713

Facilities
Banks and Money Exchange: There are a few national banks that operate in Jorhat and even fewer that handle currency exchange. The State Bank of India on AT Road encashes traveller's cheques.

Tourist Information Office: The tourism department has its office at the
Tourist Lodge in Jorhat and Sibsagar. But appraoching them for any information is guaranteed waste of time.

Communications: Not a business centre nor on the tourism circuit, you need a miracle to find a cybercafe in Jorhat. Your sole connection to the outside world are the phone booths that will let you call within and outside India.

Sightseeing
Majuli
13km north of Jorhat, Majuli is the world's largest inhabited river island. Though eroding rapidly, the island is home to satras or Vaishnavite (dedicated to Vishnu of the Hindu trinity) monasteries established by 15th century poet-philosopher, Sankardeva. These monasteries serve more as centres of art rather than religion. The presiding deity Vishnu is worhipped here through music and dance rather than rituals. Dancers and musicians enact episodes from the Mahabahrata and perform the Raas (ring dance that Lord Krishna performed with the cowherdesses).
There are 22 satras in Majoli, the biggest being Kamalabari, Natun Kamalabari, Garamur and Dakhinapati. Within a few kilometres of each other, you can walk them or take a taxi or rickshaw.


Sibsagar
Meaning the Ocean of Shiva, Sibsagar served as the capital of the Ahom rulers during their unbroken 600 year reign. The town's landmarks even today are the numerous structures that these rulers built. Though most people make a day trip to Sibsagar, if you are a history buff who likes to potter about old ruins, then there's enough for you to spend a day or two here.

Kareng Ghar and Talatal Ghar:About 16km from the town centre, the Kareng Ghar palace was built by 18th century Ahom ruler Rudra Singha. Its three underground floors known as Talatal Ghar were connected by secret passages to the Dikhow river. Meant to serve as emergency exits, these were later blocked by the East India Company.

Rang Ghar: This egg-shaped pavilion is touted as Asia's first amphitheatre. Built in the mid-1700s, the two-storeyed structure was a sporting arena where the royal family enjoyed elephant fights and other games.

Joysagar Tank: In the middle of town stands this manmade lake built by Rudra Singha in the memory of his mother Joymoti. Spread over 318 acres, on its bank stand the Joydol, Shivadol and Devidol temples. During the winter months, the tank serves as a stopover for flocks of migratory birds.

Shivadol Temple: Towering 33m high, the Shivadol temple is believed to be the tallest Shiva temple in India. It was commissioned by Queen Madambika, wife of King Siva Singha of Ahom dynasty.


Charaideo: Built as the regional capital of the Ahoms by the dynasty's founder Sukapha, it houses the tombs of the royal family.

Gargaon Palace: This grand seven-storeyed palace lies 13km east of the present Sibsagar town. The original palace was built in 1540 by the tenth Ahom king. But what stands today was rebuilt in 1762 by King Rajeswar Singha.

Tezpur
Factfile

Population : 54,999

STD Code: 03712
Best Season: November-March


About 196km from Guwahati, on the northern bank of river Brahmaputra lies the busy tea trading centre of Tezpur. Steeped in mythology, backed by history and graced by natural beauty, the town has a charm that even the British found irresistible. Ancient texts refer to the town as Sonitpur, the City of Blood. Legend has it that Aniruddha, the grandson of Lord Krishna, fell in love with Usha, the daughter of demon king Banasura. The disapproving father threw Aniruddha into prison. Lord Krishna then came to his grandson's rescue and a fierce battle ensued wherein the entire town was washed with blood. Hence the name.
Though not a popular tourist destination, Tezpur has fantastic views of the Himalayas, crumbling monuments, ancient temples, jungle camping and plenty of wildlife.

Getting There
There are two flights a week from Calcutta to Tezpur's Saloni airport. Since the airport is 16km away from the town, you'll have to cab it there. Tezpur is also well connected by road to Guwahati (6 hours) and Kaziranga (2 hours), as well as Itanagar and Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh.

Getting About
Taxis and autorickshaws are the best means to get around this picturesque town. There are also tourist taxis that you can book for a day or half-a-day. Rates are negotiable; your hotel front desk will be of help.


Accommodation
Tezpur doesn't offer a wide range of hotels but the few that are there are clean, affordable and with very hospitable and friendly staff.

Hotel Luit (Middle Budget)
Near Main Bus Stand
Tezpur
Tel: 21220

Hotel Meghdoot (Low Budget)
KK Road
Tezpur


Tourist Lodge (Shoestring)
Opp Cole Park
Tezpur

Facilities
Banks and Money Exchange: Make sure you are carrying enough Indian rupees before you head for Tezpur. There are few banks that offer currency exchange facility. In case you are stuck, you might find help at Hotel Luit.

Post and Communications: You'll find the post office near the bus stand, though letters take a while to reach their destination from this part of Assam. Telephone booths with STD/ISD facilities are more plenty and you'll find them in all local markets.

Tourist Information Office: The Tourist Development Corporation of Assam has an information kiosk that will give you basic information. You can call them at 21016.

Eating Out
Hotel restaurants are the only option that you have. Hotel Luit's restaurant is particularly recommended. Besides an extremely friendly staff, it serves a good variety and the prices are affordable. If you are a fish fanatic, then the smell of fried fish and other goodies sizzling in roadside kiosks will be hard to resist; but sink your teeth only if your stomach has an iron lining.

Sightseeing
Da-Parbatia Temple
About 5km from the town centre, Da-Parbatia is the oldest and finest example of stone sculpture in Assam. Carved in the early Gupta style (which stressed on fine lines and simplicity rather than ornateness), the imposing door frame suggests the grandness of the temple when it must have stood proud and glorious. The two legs of the frame depict goddesses Ganga and Yamuna welcoming visitors with garlands.

Cole Park
Named after the British Deputy Commissioner who founded it, Cole Park houses the remains of an ancient palace that was excavated here. It also has two mammoth ornamental stone pillars and sculptures dating back to the 9th century.

Bamuni Hills
Scattered atop the Bamuni Hill are ruins dating back to the 9th and 10th centuries. Broken gateways, headless sculptures, remains of stone walls - all stand testimony to the craftsmanship mastered by the Assamese artisans of yore. Nearby is the Hazara Pukhuri, an irrigation tank built in early 1800s.

Kalia Bhomora Bridge
This 3.5km bridge connects Tezpur to the district of Nagaon. According to a mammoth stone inscription at Bhomoraguri, an 18th century Ahom general called Kalia Bhomora Phukan wished to construct a bridge over the river Brahmaputra. His dream took almost two centuries to come true, when the Assam government decided to construct this bridge over the Brahmaputra.

Quick Getaways
Orang Wildlife Sanctuary
About 32km from Tezpur, Orang sanctuary is known as mini Kaziranga. The park covers just about 72 sq km, so it's easier to spot the tigers, leopards, rhinos, Indian bisons, herds of deer and water birds that breed here. Unfortunately, the small resthouse in the park does not permit overnight stay. So it is best to stay at Tezpur and make a day trip to Orang.

Adventure and Outdoor Activities
If you are a nature freak who likes bird spotting, nature walks, rafting, elephant rides, angling, etc, then you can join Eco Camp. You'll get more details and can also make your reservations through Assam Anglers Association in Tezpur (Tel: 03712-20004; Fax:03712-21583) or their office in Guwahati (0361-545847). You can also contact Wild Grass Resort for reservations (036776-62437).

Kaziranga National Park
Factfile

Area: 430 sq km

Rhino Population: 1,500
STD Code: 036776
Best Season: November-April

Spread over a vast 430 sq km, the Kaziranga National Park is one of the few remaining homes of the one-horned Rhinoceros unicornis. It is said that when the Venetian traveller Marco Polo set eyes on it the very first time, he thought he was seeing the mythical unicorn. Keeping the rhino company in Kaziranga are elephants, tigers, varieties of reptiles and flocks of migratory birds. It's best to visit Kaziranga between November and April. Just after the rains and during the winter, the park is wonderfully green and the animals are out basking in the sun.

Getting There
Jorhat 85km away is the nearest airhead to Kaziranga. There are no convenient trains but frequent buses connect the park to Guwahati, Sibsagar, Jorhat and Dibrugarh. You'll have to get off at the main gate at Kohora and drive into the park. If you are driving down in a private vehicle, you can retain it to sightsee inside the park.

Getting About
If you want to play Jim Corbett in Kaziranga, then opt for an elephant safari. More seriously, since Kaziranga has a thick overgrowth of elephant grass, the best wildlife spotting can be done from the back of an elephant. You need to make your booking at the Bonani Tourist Lodge (62423).
There are also jeeps which can be hired on a share basis. To use your own vehicle you need to pay a nominal fee to obtain the permit.

Accommodation
There are several options, depending on whether you want to stay inside the park or outside. The park offers resthouses and lodges which are well furnished and equipped. These include Aranya (Low budget), Bonashree (shoestring), Kunjaban (shoestring) and Bonani (shoestring). You can book in advance with:
Director, Kaziranga National Park
PO Bokaghat, District Jorhat
Assam

If you want to camp under the bright blue sky, Wild Grass Resort (Tel: 681437) offers tent as well as lodge accommodation. The resort also has package tours which take care of accommodation, food and sightseeing. About 5km from Kohora, you can make your bookings in Guwahati at:
Baruah Bhawan
107, MC Road
Guwahati
Tel: 0361-546827; Fax: 0361-541186

Sightseeing
Sprawling a huge 430 sq km, Kaziranga's pride is the single-horned rhinoceros (zoologists imperiously call it Rhinoceros unicornis). Lazing in the slushy swamps of the Brahmaputra are believed to be nearly 1,500 of them. But in the beginning of the 20th century, this animal had come dangerously close to extinction, hunted for its horn that's believed to have medicinal properties. Even today, the Great Indian Rhinoceros isn't safe - if it's not gun-toting poachers, it's the floods that destroy the rhinos' home every monsoon.
Despite this, you don't need lady luck to sight the rhino in Kaziranga. You'll find them grazing in the open, near the water banks or duelling with their peers. And they aren't camera shy - even the most amateur photographers manage to bring back fantastic pics of this formidable foe.
Sharing space with the rhino are elephants, tigers, leopards, sloth bears, swamp deer, langurs, deer, birds like hornbill, ibis, heron, fishing eagle and egret.